In an industry where textile waste reaches staggering heights annually, PELINOVA® represents a paradigm shift toward truly circular fashion. This groundbreaking hybrid material, born from our collaboration with Paris-based pioneers Recyc Leather, made its debut on the global stage with the Danish fashion brand Ganni during Paris Fashion Week 2024.
PELINOVA® is made by fusing recycled leather fibers with TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers through revolutionary hydro-jet technology. With this new innovation, we're not just creating a material – we're rewriting the narrative around waste and demonstrating how collaboration can reshape the fashion industry.
Below, Recyc Leather co-founder Olivier Grammont shares his path and mission, and the vision that drives him and fellow co-founder Aron Yu: creating "elegant, high-performance material solutions that reduce waste and redefine value in fashion and design."
Why do you do what you do?
After years in the leather goods industry, I came to realize that the traditional way of doing things—despite its craftsmanship and history—was increasingly disconnected from the pressing environmental realities we face today. I felt the need to contribute to a new mindset, one that challenges norms and puts sustainability at the core of innovation. Recyc Leather was born out of this vision: to offer an elegant, high-performance material solution that reduces waste and redefines value in fashion and design.
Can you tell us about your professional journey and how you arrived at this point?
I’ve lived and worked in Hong Kong for nearly 15 years, deeply immersed in the world of leather goods and accessories production, in the Guangzhou province, in the south of China. I collaborated with a variety of international brands and witnessed firsthand the enormous environmental footprint this industry leaves behind—particularly in terms of leather waste. That exposure pushed me to think differently. Instead of merely adapting to sustainability trends, I wanted to initiate meaningful change. Teaming up with my co-founder Aron Yu, we leveraged our complementary skills and experiences to bring Recyc Leather to life.
What are some details about the leather industry that people might not be aware of?
Most consumers don’t see the amount of leather waste generated during manufacturing—offcuts, flaws, unsold inventories—much of which ends up incinerated or in landfills. Then there’s the intensive use of water and chemicals in the production processes, which impacts the environment. Leather production, while often seen as a byproduct of the meat industry, is a resource-heavy operation with long-term ecological consequences. These realities are often hidden behind the allure of luxury.
How long did it take to develop PELINOVA®?
It took about 18 months of intensive research and development. We went through numerous trials to refine the formula, balance strength and flexibility, and ensure the material could meet the demands of fashion, footwear, and interior design. Our goal wasn’t just to recycle leather—it was to create a material that truly performs and inspires. We didn’t want a compromise product; we wanted something innovative, scalable, and beautiful.
How was Lenzing essential?
Lenzing was a key partner in achieving our vision of sustainability and performance. Their TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers bring exceptional qualities—renewability, softness, strength, and traceability. When combined with our recycled leather fibers through hydro-jet technology, the result is PELINOVA®—a material that carries the tactile appeal of leather, with a radically lower environmental impact.
This partnership is a textbook example of how collaboration can drive material innovation.
What are the material benefits as an alternative to traditional leather?
First and foremost, PELINOVA® significantly reduces the carbon footprint compared to conventional leather. It allows for more efficient cutting, reducing waste in the production process. It's also free from toxic tanning chemicals and uses 70% less water during production. In short, it performs beautifully in both design and durability, without the ecological burden of animal-based leather.
In a simple world, what are the three policies or actions you would implement to achieve a more sustainable way of life?
First, I’d implement a circular economy model across industries—designing products with their end-of-life in mind and reusing materials wherever possible. Second, transparency in supply chains should become the norm, not the exception—consumers have the right to know where and how products are made. Finally, we must invest in educating younger generations about sustainability—because their choices will shape the future of industries and ecosystems alike.
What projects are coming up this year that you feel most excited about?
We have a busy calendar ahead. I’m particularly looking forward to our workshop with Carbonfact in Paris on September 9, where we’ll dive deeper into material emissions and transparency with several fashion and luxury brands. We'll also be showcasing at Premiere Vision from September 16–18, one of the industry’s most important gatherings for material innovation. And in October, we’re participating in the International Festival of Fashion, Photography and Fashion Accessories in Hyères—a platform that merges fashion, creativity, and sustainability. Each of these events is a chance to engage, learn, and collaborate.
Finally, to finish on a high note, what changes in the industry — potential or currently taking place — do you feel most optimistic about?
I’m optimistic about the new environmental and labeling regulations being developed in the European Union. These policies are finally holding companies accountable, pushing them to quantify and reduce their impacts. It’s a huge step toward a more honest and responsible industry. I also see a growing sense of responsibility among brands—large and small—who are willing to invest in innovation and sustainable alternatives.
The mindset is shifting, and that’s where real transformation begins.
